Snapshot: Perito Moreno Glacier

This shot was taken on the edge of the Perito Moreno glacier in Argentina's Los Glaciares National Park, around half an hour into the 'Big Ice' tour.

Big Ice – Trekking The Perito Moreno Glacier

It takes something special to get me out of bed at 5.50 am and the Perito Moreno glacier certainly falls into that category. When planning our South American adventure from a drizzly, leaden sky Britain several months before I was adamant that this jewel of Argentinean Patagonia was a must-see.

We had been told that the cheapest option when visiting Perito Moreno was to see it from the viewing platform on the shorter tour. Whilst that was fantastic in itself, looking back the 350 pesos (about £40) extra we paid to do the ‘Big Ice’ tour and actually walk on the glacier was the best £40 we’d ever spent.

After a semi-comatose (well, I was) 40 minute minibus ride into Los Glaciares National Park from El Calafate the glacier gradually appeared on the horizon. We parked at the visitors centre at the top of the steep hillside leading down to the glacier. Pleasingly, the trees kept the main attraction out of sight at this point, leaving the truly awe-inspiring wow moment of the endless whiteness stretching into the distance until halfway down the staggered staircases. As we took pictures, large chunks of ice creaked and groaned before falling into the water below.

Next stop was the glacier itself, via a short boat ride which dropped us on the shore alongside. It was here that the juxtaposition of trees, grassy hillside and imposing mass of ice was most impressive. The groups ahead of us, already scaling the ice, looked miniscule against the enormous icy backdrop. After a 30 minute walk along side the glacier we attached our crampons (with some help from our guides - some of us more than others) and gingerly started our Big Ice adventure.

In total we spent three and a half hours on the ice – the kind of place where it’s almost impossible to put your camera down for a second. The mist and clouds of the morning sporadically gave away to brilliant sunshine which made for some incredibly scenic views across the now gleaming ice.

By the time we stopped for a surreal lunch by an improbable neon-blue lake in the middle of the glacier, the amount of photos taken was already into the hundreds. The free keying and whiskey whilst we road the boat back courtesy of our fantastic guides Hielo y Aventura was just the icing (excuse the pun) on the cake.

El Calafate: The Gateway to the Glaciers

El Calafate is effectively the gateway to Patagonia’s Los Glaciares National Park and the best access point to the breathtaking Perito Moreno glacier. It’s just a two hour flight from Buenos Aires but it’s worlds away from the urban sprawl of the capital, more reminiscent of an alpine village than South America.

Once a tiny provincial village, El Calafate is now home to around 20,000 people, many of which return to the cities of northern Argentina outside of summer time. Sadly we learned that the packs of loveable, friendly dogs that roam the streets are simply left to fend for themselves throughout the winter until their owners come back in spring.

Some of the seasonal strays

Whilst the vast majority of people use El Calafate as a base to visit its surroundings, the town is an enjoyable place in its own right. Everything is boutique here from the tiny airport terminal to the improbable, almost tent-like triangular houses that line the dirt tracks on the outskirts of town. Lago Argentino is just a short 10 minute stroll from the centre of town and there are expansive views across the lake from the hillsides that surround El Calafate.

Triangular houses on the outskirts of town

For such a small town, visitors are really spoilt for choice when it comes to cafes and restaurants. Viva La Pepa, which specialises in both savoury and sweet pancakes, is a must-visit. The quirky miniature watering can filled with carrot sticks that came as a complimentary appetiser might be a bit twee for some, but it seemed like a timely suggestion to eat something healthy after the steak-based excesses of Buenos Aires. Having said that, the enormous banana and chocolate creppe that followed was certainly filed under ‘guilty pleasures’.

A rare moment of healthy eating at Viva La Pepa

La Esquina, found halfway along the Av. del Libertador San Martin (the main street) is also worth a mention; try the steak and cheese sandwich, but not if you’re planning to walk anywhere shortly afterwards. For those not getting up at 6am for a treck the next day, Libro Bar which overlooks the gnome village alleyway of shops just off the main street has a long list of cocktails and, as its name would suggest to Spanish speakers, all sorts of weird and wonderful books.

Sunset over the lake from Nakel Yenu

We spent three very comfortable nights at the Nakel Yenu Hostal which is perched on a hill overlooking the lake, on the way into town from the airport. If you don’t feel like walking down the hill into town, The La Esquina Varela opposite serves a variety of European foods – portions are glacier-sized! 

48 Hours in Buenos Aires

We began our South American adventure in the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires – a large, lively metropolis in the north east of the country. Buenos Aires is a popular place to start a journey round South America from Europe and there’s plenty to see and do while shaking off any lingering jet lag. Here's where to head if you've got a weekend in Buenos Aires.

Palermo Soho

We spent our first night in Buenos Aires the leafy, uber-trendy neighbourhood of Palermo Soho before moving somewhere more central. This is a great neighbouring to eat, drink and shop. Prices are certainly more ‘European’ than other parts of the city, and there is certainly a European feel to the area. If BA is your first destination then Palermo Soho is a good neighbourhood to gently ease yourself into South America whilst you’ve still got some money to spend.

The popular Mark’s Deli and Coffee House (on the corner of Armenia and El Salvador) is a great spot for lunch (provided you can find a table). Plaza Serrano is a good place to head at night with plenty of lively bars and of course steak restaurants. Try Sheldon for a lengthy list of elaborate cocktails.

Getting there:

No tube lines run through the heart of Palermo Soho but it’s just a ten minute walk from the green line (Scalabrini Ortiz or Plaza Italia) or red line (Malabia).

The multicoloured Caminito

La Boca

One of the most photographed parts of Buenos Aires, the Caminito of La Boca is an array of primary colours – the work of 1960s artist Benito Quinquela Martín. The distinctive décor of its houses, shops and bars draw thousands of tourists a year and its colourful façade and imaginative murals offer lots of cool photo opportunities. Fans of one Diego Maradona will not be disappointed. He may have retired over fifteen years ago but La Boca is almost a shrine to him with murals, papier-mâché figures and all manner of Maradona merchandise.

The area between the port and the football stadium is pretty tourist-friendly but La Boca isn’t a particularly safe neighbourhood, particularly after dark. The surroundings get considerably sketchier a block or so south of the stadium so keep an eye on where you’re heading.

Getting there:

No tube lines run through La Boca. There are numerous buses running from the centre that will drop you at the waterfront in front of the Caminito.

La Bombonera - home of Boca Juniors

La Bombonera

The towering home of Boca Juniors is tucked away behind the technicolour houses of the Caminito, just a couple of blocks away from the waterfront. Fans start arriving for games around two hours before and TV coverage is intensely dedicated, even by European standards. 

The Argentine season is split in two and runs from August to December and then February to June. Tickets for Bocas games are often thin on the ground for bigger games, so try and get tickets in advance if possible. It’s not advisable to buy from touts around the grounds as scams are common.

If you’re not lucky enough to get tickets, it’s still worth visiting the stadium during the day to do the stadium tour or see the Hollywood–style plaques outside featuring famous names like Carlos Tevez,  Juan Roman Riquelme and of course the omnipresent Maradona.  

Getting there: See ‘La Boca’

Buenos Aires' skyline from the Eco Reserve

Ecological Reserve

I’ve always preferred cities that give you the chance to escape the hustle and bustle. A visit to Buenos Aires’ Ecological Reserve is great for getting some peace and quiet during the day if the noise and traffic gets a bit overwhelming. It’s known for its bird watching and although we didn’t see much avian life, we did see a wild guinea pig scuttling in and out of the undergrowth and some interesting views of the city skyline.

Getting there:

The Ecological Reserve is on the seafront, just past the affluent docks area. From Av. 9 de Julio, walk down Av. Belgrano and then cross over the docks towards the seafront. The nearest entrance will be on the right hand side of the wetlands, about five minutes walk away.

Getting into Buenos Aires from its airport(s):

International flights land at Ministro Pistarini Airport - a 45 minute taxi ride from the city centre. The safest way to travel by taxi is to go to the booths just outside the arrivals hall and book one with an official company.

If you’re flying on elsewhere in Argentina, domestic flights go via the smaller Aeroparque Jorge Newbury, which is much closer than Ministro Pistarini Airport. It shouldn’t take more than 15-20 minutes by taxi from Av 9 de Julio, unless the traffic is particularly bad.

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Have you been to Buenos Aires? What would you add to the list?