48 Hours in Buenos Aires

We began our South American adventure in the Argentine capital of Buenos Aires – a large, lively metropolis in the north east of the country. Buenos Aires is a popular place to start a journey round South America from Europe and there’s plenty to see and do while shaking off any lingering jet lag. Here's where to head if you've got a weekend in Buenos Aires.

Palermo Soho

We spent our first night in Buenos Aires the leafy, uber-trendy neighbourhood of Palermo Soho before moving somewhere more central. This is a great neighbouring to eat, drink and shop. Prices are certainly more ‘European’ than other parts of the city, and there is certainly a European feel to the area. If BA is your first destination then Palermo Soho is a good neighbourhood to gently ease yourself into South America whilst you’ve still got some money to spend.

The popular Mark’s Deli and Coffee House (on the corner of Armenia and El Salvador) is a great spot for lunch (provided you can find a table). Plaza Serrano is a good place to head at night with plenty of lively bars and of course steak restaurants. Try Sheldon for a lengthy list of elaborate cocktails.

Getting there:

No tube lines run through the heart of Palermo Soho but it’s just a ten minute walk from the green line (Scalabrini Ortiz or Plaza Italia) or red line (Malabia).

The multicoloured Caminito

La Boca

One of the most photographed parts of Buenos Aires, the Caminito of La Boca is an array of primary colours – the work of 1960s artist Benito Quinquela Martín. The distinctive décor of its houses, shops and bars draw thousands of tourists a year and its colourful façade and imaginative murals offer lots of cool photo opportunities. Fans of one Diego Maradona will not be disappointed. He may have retired over fifteen years ago but La Boca is almost a shrine to him with murals, papier-mâché figures and all manner of Maradona merchandise.

The area between the port and the football stadium is pretty tourist-friendly but La Boca isn’t a particularly safe neighbourhood, particularly after dark. The surroundings get considerably sketchier a block or so south of the stadium so keep an eye on where you’re heading.

Getting there:

No tube lines run through La Boca. There are numerous buses running from the centre that will drop you at the waterfront in front of the Caminito.

La Bombonera - home of Boca Juniors

La Bombonera

The towering home of Boca Juniors is tucked away behind the technicolour houses of the Caminito, just a couple of blocks away from the waterfront. Fans start arriving for games around two hours before and TV coverage is intensely dedicated, even by European standards. 

The Argentine season is split in two and runs from August to December and then February to June. Tickets for Bocas games are often thin on the ground for bigger games, so try and get tickets in advance if possible. It’s not advisable to buy from touts around the grounds as scams are common.

If you’re not lucky enough to get tickets, it’s still worth visiting the stadium during the day to do the stadium tour or see the Hollywood–style plaques outside featuring famous names like Carlos Tevez,  Juan Roman Riquelme and of course the omnipresent Maradona.  

Getting there: See ‘La Boca’

Buenos Aires' skyline from the Eco Reserve

Ecological Reserve

I’ve always preferred cities that give you the chance to escape the hustle and bustle. A visit to Buenos Aires’ Ecological Reserve is great for getting some peace and quiet during the day if the noise and traffic gets a bit overwhelming. It’s known for its bird watching and although we didn’t see much avian life, we did see a wild guinea pig scuttling in and out of the undergrowth and some interesting views of the city skyline.

Getting there:

The Ecological Reserve is on the seafront, just past the affluent docks area. From Av. 9 de Julio, walk down Av. Belgrano and then cross over the docks towards the seafront. The nearest entrance will be on the right hand side of the wetlands, about five minutes walk away.

Getting into Buenos Aires from its airport(s):

International flights land at Ministro Pistarini Airport - a 45 minute taxi ride from the city centre. The safest way to travel by taxi is to go to the booths just outside the arrivals hall and book one with an official company.

If you’re flying on elsewhere in Argentina, domestic flights go via the smaller Aeroparque Jorge Newbury, which is much closer than Ministro Pistarini Airport. It shouldn’t take more than 15-20 minutes by taxi from Av 9 de Julio, unless the traffic is particularly bad.

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Have you been to Buenos Aires? What would you add to the list?