El Calafate is effectively the gateway to Patagonia’s Los
Glaciares National Park and the best access point to the breathtaking Perito
Moreno glacier. It’s just a two hour flight from Buenos Aires but it’s worlds
away from the urban sprawl of the capital, more reminiscent of an alpine
village than South America.
Once a tiny provincial village, El Calafate is now home to
around 20,000 people, many of which return to the cities of northern Argentina
outside of summer time. Sadly we learned that the packs of loveable, friendly dogs
that roam the streets are simply left to fend for themselves throughout the
winter until their owners come back in spring.
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| Some of the seasonal strays |
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Whilst the vast majority of people use El Calafate as a base
to visit its surroundings, the town is an enjoyable place in its own right. Everything
is boutique here from the tiny airport terminal to the improbable, almost
tent-like triangular houses that line the dirt tracks on the outskirts of town.
Lago Argentino is just a short 10 minute stroll from the centre of town and
there are expansive views across the lake from the hillsides that surround El
Calafate.
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| Triangular houses on the outskirts of town |
For such a small town, visitors are really spoilt for choice
when it comes to cafes and restaurants. Viva La Pepa, which specialises in both
savoury and sweet pancakes, is a must-visit. The quirky miniature watering can
filled with carrot sticks that came as a complimentary appetiser might be a bit
twee for some, but it seemed like a timely suggestion to eat something healthy
after the steak-based excesses of Buenos Aires. Having said that, the enormous
banana and chocolate creppe that followed was certainly filed under ‘guilty
pleasures’.
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| A rare moment of healthy eating at Viva La Pepa |
La Esquina, found halfway along the Av. del Libertador San
Martin (the main street) is also worth a mention; try the steak and cheese
sandwich, but not if you’re planning to walk anywhere shortly afterwards. For
those not getting up at 6am for a treck the next day, Libro Bar which overlooks
the gnome village alleyway of shops just off the main street has a long list
of cocktails and, as its name would suggest to Spanish speakers, all sorts of
weird and wonderful books.
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| Sunset over the lake from Nakel Yenu |
We spent three very comfortable nights at the Nakel Yenu Hostal
which is perched on a hill overlooking the lake, on the way into town from the
airport. If you don’t feel like walking down the hill into town, The La Esquina
Varela opposite serves a variety of European foods – portions are
glacier-sized!
